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Early Jewelry Designers Collecting old costume
jewelry can be lots of fun and monetarily rewarding.
A jewelry piece does not have to be signed by the artist or
company to be valuable. There
are many beautiful, well constructed and designed “unsigned
beauties” that demand high prices today.
However, if a piece is signed, one can add 20 to 50 percent to
the value. Below are listed
a few of the major pioneer designers of jewelry making in the United
States. Many of them are
not in business now, making their jewelry highly collectible.
Some companies maintained their excellence and improved upon it
as their businesses grew. During the 1940s and 1950s, Hollywood had a great
influence on the American woman’s jewelry buys.
Glitz was in and fabulous rhinestone pieces were created to
imitate the “real thing”. Those
pieces were so lovely and made so well movie stars and the rich and
famous wore them without reluctance.
On this page you will find some of those designers and learn a
little of their history. This
list, by far, does not include all designers of costume jewelry. ADELE
SIMPSON. Adele
Smithline was born in 1903 and after her marriage to William Simpson in
1930 she began working for the Mary Lee Fashions Company where she was
allowed to use her own label. Her
jewelry production was limited and very rarely found today. Her jewelry demands high prices today. ALICE
CAVINESS.
Alice Caviness began her company in the 1940s and it continues
today. The jewelry is not
very common and sought after by collectors.
Her jewelry included imported beads and striking color
combinations and was sold in high-end boutiques.
Not as imaginative as some, still her jewelry demanded very high
prices. ART.
This
company was in business from 1940 to 1970.
They are known for unusual styles and color combinations.
The ART also produced figural jewelry which is collectible today. ACCESSOCRAFT. Began business in 1930 and still operates.
BOUCHER.
In business from the 1930s to 1970s.
Marcel Boucher designs were highly imaginative and superbly made. Highly collectible today. CAROLEE.
This company was founded in 1973 and is still in business today.
Her designs are of high quality. CASTLECLIFF.
Founded
in 1940 and closed in 1960. Wide
range of designs. CINER.
This company began under the leadership of Emanuel Ciner in 1892
and is still in business today. They
produce fine jewelry using high quality stones and pearls.
Very beautiful workmanship, timelessly fashionable, the company
was known as “The Tiffany of Costume Jewelry” and considered the top
of the line. Highly collectible. CARNEGIE.
One of my favorite designers, Hattie Carnegie began designing and
manufacturing jewelry about 1818. Carnegie
jewelry is daring in its bold designs and highly collectible.
Carnegie jewelry was another favorite of the rich and famous in
the 1940s. Animals and
birds were often used in her repertoire.
Many of her pieces have an oriental influenced. CHANEL.
Gabrielle “Coco”
Chanel did a lot of things very well.
Some of her jewelry pieces are wonderful. CHAREL.
Charel Jewelry Company opened operations about 1945.
Their designs were often made of plastic on metal.
It is rare and will continue to rise in prices. CORO.
Coro has its beginning in 1901.
By 1920 it was manufacturing more jewelry than any other company.
Coro jewelry covers a broad range of designs and price ranges.
It used many different markings including Coro, Coro Craft, Coro
Elegant Coro Supreme, Corolite, Coro Radiance and Coro Originals.
(Over 70 trademarks were actually used). The company is
still in business and is improving on their designs and quality.
Collectors will find that Coro pieces vary in value, depending on
the style, metal and creativity. The
most under-rated pieces patented by Coro was the duette.
Today collectors are recognizing their beauty and collectibility
more than ever. Duettes
will certainly continue to rise in prices.
Other favorites are Coro figural pins, especially those known as
“jelly bellies” where the clear central stone is usually made from
Lucite. The best parures by
Coro were designed between 1930 and 1950 and are highly collectible
today. DeNICOLA.
The
company operated from the early 1960s to the 1970s. This jewelry is rarely found today. Wonderful craftsmanship and imaginative.
DeMARIO.
Robert DeMario founded this company in 1945 and ended in the
early 1960s. The jewelry is
very well made and known for superior craftsmanship.
He used lots of beads and faux pearls in his brass filigree and
glass designs. It is marked with the company name.
DeMario was first employed by Miriam Haskell. Very collectible! Di
N, Mimi. Founded
in 1962 and is still in business today.
High usage of glass cabochons and Byzantine influenced settings.
Highly collectible. EISENBERG.
Top of the line! The
company was founded by Jonas Eisenberg in 1914 and originally sold fine
clothing with jeweled accessories.
Often the jeweled pins found on the clothing were more desirable
to the customer than the clothing itself.
In 1930 Eisenberg began producing it’s own jewelry using only
the finest metals and employing the best of Austrian rhinestones
provided by the Swarowski Company.
Unfortunately, from 1930 to 1935, Eisenberg jewelry was not
signed. In 1935 the company
signed “Eisenberg Original” and “E” to their pieces and
continued with this mark until 1945.
This signature mark jewelry today is valued between $550 and
$3,000 today. Many of the
original pieces were made from heavy sterling silver until the 1940s
when pot metals were used due to the World War II restrictions on silver
and other metals. From 1945 to 1958 “Eisenberg Ice” became the company’s
signature mark after designer Ruth M. Kamke became the chief designer
from the 1940s to 1972. However
from 1958 to 1970 their jewelry carried no signature and in 1970 (came
with tags), they began signing with “Eisenberg Ice” again.
All Eisenberg jewelry is highly collectible and will continue to
rise in prices. The company
continues to thrive today. EMMONS.
Emmons
is the sister company of Sarah Coventry.
It was founded by Charles H. Stuart in 1949. Sarah Coventry came into being the following year.
Both EMMONS and SARAH COVENTRY were sold at home parties
in the 1950s and 1960s. There
are many collectors and fans of these jewelry lines. FLORENZA.
This company began operations in 1948 and ended their business in
1981. Distinct designs,
influenced by the Renaissance Revival, set this company apart. Very ornamental and intricate filigree metal work, antique
gold finishes and unique designs makes this signed jewelry highly
collectible. Unfortunately,
not all Florenza jewelry is signed.
GIVENCHY.
Founded in 1950 and still in business today.
Givenchy jewelry makes good use of gold plating, Lucite and other
plastics. HAGLER.
From
1950 to 1996. Stanley
Hagler is known for his exquisite use of simulated seed, freshwater and
baroque pearls. HAR.
Not much is known about this designing company except that it
opened in 1940 and closed in the 1950s.
Most of the jewelry produced by HAR has an oriental influence and
commands top dollar today. Their
jewelry making is of quality workmanship.
HAR pieces displayed an excellent usage of enameling and
imitation bone. HAR jewelry ighly collectible today. HOBE.
When
you purchase Hobe jewelry, you can be assured of high quality stones and
elegant design. This
company actually began in the 1800s in Paris and can be traced to
Jacques Hobe, a well-known goldsmith.
Hollywood producers sought Hobe jewelry for their films in the
1950s. The “Hobe”
trademark has existed since 1926. Hobe specialized in sterling and gold wash over sterling.
They used large stones with bezel settings and cushion rollers on
some of their earrings. If you bought a piece in the 1960s for $30.00,
you can expect the value to be three times that today. Hobe jewelry is
just fantastic and will continue to be very collectible. HOLLYCRAFT.
This company began in 1948 and closed in 1972. Sometimes dating their pieces, designer Joseph Chorbagian
used antique gold finish and pastel rhinestones.
From 1950 to 1958 the company produced whimsical and novelty
items which are also very collectible today. JOSEFF
OF HOLLYWOOD.
This company began in 1935 by founder Eugene Joseff.
It is still in business today.
It is known for hand-set and hand-soldered and antique gold and
silver finishes on their jewelry. The
company’s jewelry so grandiose, original pieces were rented to
Hollywood movie producers. Joseff jewelry commands high prices today. KENNETH
JAY LANE.
Kenneth Lane opened his jewelry business in 1954 with a dramatic
style. His jewelry is
inspired by far away places and by using striking colors.
His logo for the first ten years was simply K. J. L.
He designed Laguana pearls for Saks Fifth Avenue who carried the
signature “Kenneth Lane Laguana”.
A great designer with a great following!
Buy. KORDA.
In 1940, the movie “Thief of Baghdad” was released and
Alexander Korda designed the jewelry pieces for the movie.
The movie and the jewelry were a big hit!
Korda’s jewelry reflected the theme of the movie and signed his
pieces “Thief of Baghdad”. A
limited number of pins, necklaces and earrings were produced baring this
signature. It is quite rare
and valuable today. KRAMER.
Kramer Jewelry Creations began in 1943 by Louis Kramer and closed
in 1970. Known for the
“Golden Look” in the 1950s and the “Diamond Look” in the 1960s,
his jewelry line was very glamorous.
Designs were very creative and ranks up there with the top
companies. KREMENTZ.
Another favorite of mine! Krementz
and Company produces fine, affordable jewelry in 10k and 14k and gold
and also gold-filled. The
pieces that I have had the pleasure of owning are dainty and
magnificently designed. If
you won a Krementz piece, it will retain its beauty forever.
Using real cultured pearls and various shades of gold make their
designs very desirable. Buy! LES
BERNARD. This company was originally founded in 1936 as VOGUE and
hanged to LES BERNARD in 1963. It
closed its doors in 1996. When
you find a piece of Les Bernard you will immediately notice the high
quality construction of the piece.
It was never inexpensive and will continue to rise in prices.
The company produced a wide range of gold-tone and gold-plated
jewelry and styles ranging from Art Deco to Egyptian. MIRIAM
HASKELL.
Miriam Haskell was born in 1899 and began her business in 1924
and continued with until 1954 at which time her younger brother, Joseph
Haskell, purchased it from her. She
was known as the “First Lady of Fashion.” It is still in business
today. Her early pieces are
very collectible. One of my
favorites, Haskell jewelry always has a distinctive look—excellent
metalwork and exquisite pearls and beads.
MAZER/JOMAZ.
Mazer Brothers was founded in 1927 and closed its doors in 1951.
They manufactured high quality jewelry, with a spectacular use of
rhinestones. Trademarks
include Mazer Bros., Mazer or Jomaz.
McCLELLAND
BARCLAY.
McClelland Barclay was born in 1891 and worked as an illustrator,
sculptor and painter and eventually took up jewelry designing.
His designs had the look of fine jewelry and he was skilled in
the use of plastics. He died when a passenger on a ship that was
torpedoed in WWII. His
jewelry cannot be over-rated. It
is high quality and rare, rare, rare!
Very good investment. MONET.
Founded in 1937 and is now a owned by the Crystal Brands Jewelry
group along with Trifari and Marvella.
Monet is known for classic designs in silver and gold tones.
Not very daring jewelry but very nice. Will continue to
rise in prices. NETTIE ROSENSTEIN.
Born in 1892, Nettie Rosenstein made her mark in costume jewelry
in the 1930s. Her jewelry,
though expensive, is unique and of outstanding quality.
She was inspired by the Victorian era.
Buy if you have an opportunity. PANETTA.
Founded in the 1940s and closed their doors in the early 1980s.
Panetta jewelry was often sold in boutiques and was never
inexpensive. Their jewelry
has exquisite detail and are very high quality.
Very collectible today. PENNINO.
Not much is known about this company.
It’s jewelry was very popular in the 1940s. Known for using the best of rhinestones that mimicked find
gemstones and for its heavy plating. RALPH DEROSA CO.
This company began in New York City in 1935 and closed in the
1960s. It is known for its
floral designs and shaded enameling.
Their jewelry production was limited and is highly sought after
by collectors today. REINAD.
Jewelry marked Reinad is extremely rare and demonstrates very
high quality metalwork and excellent craftsmanship.
BUY! ROBERT
ORIGINALS, INC.
Robert Levy began his business in 1940 with designers Larry
Josephs and Ellen Jaffee Wagman. The
business closed in 1984. Their
jewelry was known for Haskell style of pears and brass and for its
wonderful enameling. It
demands high prices today. Signed
“Robert” in script. SANDOR.
Sandor Goldberger began business in the 1930s and closed in the
1970s. Known for highly
collectible enameled flowers and figurals. SCHIAPARELLI.
Elsa Schiaparelli starter her operation in the late 1920s and
continued until the early 1960s. Known
for surrealistic designs and for using a wide variety of colored stone
combinations. Highly sought
after today. SCHREINER.
Schreiner
Jewelry Co. opened in 1939 and closed in 1973.
It is known for using Czechoslovakian stones and crystal chatons.
The stones were made from the finest craftsmen there and were
made for Schreiner exclusively. They
are no longer manufactured today. Schreiner
never massed produced their jewelry.
A great investment for the collector. STAR.
The
Star Novelty Jewelry Co., Inc was established in 1925 and remained in
business until 1947. Though
in business a short time, it rivaled Eisenberg in its designs and
quality jewelry Their
pieces are signed “Staret”. If
you have an opportunity to buy Star jewelry, don’t miss out!
It is highly collectible. TRIFARI. This company has very early beginnings. It can be traced back to Naples Italy in the mid 1800s. By the 1920s, like Coro, it became a large force in the jewelry industry. Trifari jewelry designs are top notch resembling the look of fine jewelry. Alfred Philippe worked as a designer for Trifari from 1930 to 1968 and it was mainly because of his creativity that the company was so successful. Trifari used Swarovski rhinestones and plating that looks like real gold. In 1964, Trifari was sold to Hallmark Cards, Inc. Trifari pieces are hungrily sought after by collectors, especially those pieces made between 1940 and 1950. (KTF trademark—one of many trademarks). Their jewelry covers a broad range: from figural to high quality enamel and rhinestone parures. Trifari jelly-bellies are highly sought after by today’s collector. The company is still in business today. VAN
DELL.
The company was founded in 1943 and was known for their sterling and
gold plated jewelry. Their jewelry is of high quality using
imitation stones resembling gemstones and both cultured and faux
pearls. Quite often their jewelry is marked, "1/20 12kt G.
F." Will continue to rise is prices. VENDOME.
The Vendome Company established as a subsidiary of Coro
Company in 1944 used only the best imported rhinestones and crystal
beads. It became very popular in the 1960s under the influence of
Helen Marion, the company’s main designer.
You must have at least one Vendome in your collection. WEISS.
Albert Weiss founded his company in 1942.
Known for its figural jewelry, such as butterflies, the company
also manufactured beautiful parures.
High quality jewelry using the best quality Austrian rhinestones
and wonderful designs sets this company apart from others.
The Weiss company is known for using smoky rhinestones, Christmas
trees and long stemmed flowers. This jewelry is highly collectible and
will only increase in value. The
company ceased operation in 1970. WHITING
& DAVIS.
This company began operation in 1876 and in 1909 bought the
patent to A. C. Pratt’s invention of the automatic mesh-making
machine. Prior to that, the
company was making mesh bags by hand, linking together metal ring.
With the new invention, Whiting and Davis began a profitable
business which is still in operation today.
In addition to the highly collectible bags, the company expanded
and produced a line of lovely jewelry.
Some of the jewelry pieces are also highly collectible today. References: Costume
Jewelry – A Pracitical Handbook & Value Guide;
Fred Rezazadeh |
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